FYI I'm in London and Madrid for two weeks. Be back soon!

Land, ho!

This past weekend, I went to the seaside with several of my colleagues (I feel really grown up now that I have colleagues). We spent the morning and early afternoon in Sozopol before driving up the coast to spend the afternoon and evening in Nessebar. Both are cities filled with history, amazing food, and beautiful views of the Black Sea. This past year, archaeologists found what they believe to be some of the bones of St. John the Baptist in the foundations of an old church in Sozopol, and Nessebar boasts churches from the 10^th and 14^th century. The places just ooze history but also have a lively feel as people move around living their lives. Fishermen still go out every day and bring in a fresh catch for the numerous restaurants. We were lucky enough to be there in early March when there are almost no tourists. We were able to see members of the local population at work without being immersed in a swarming, claustrophobia-inducing cloud of tourists. I can’t really express in words how wonderful the trip was, so I’m just going to show you in pictures instead. Enjoy.

We've arrived in Sozopol!

MINE!

The islands of Sozopol and the beauty of the Black Sea

Ruins of an old church

Fish soup. Yummy!

My lunch. I was waiting for them to start talking to me.

The church of St. George where they house the relics of St. John the Baptist.

Rockin' the anchor look

Live bird on statue bird on statue of St. Nikolay, patron saint of fishermen. We've arrived in Nessebar!

I love the water.

Mima and I at the 14th century church

10th century church

I'm moving out of my apartment and taking over the bishop's house. He has a much nicer view.

Love it!

Beautiful stretch of beach

Lovely view of the Black Sea

The anchor - the symbol of the sea.

I like playing around on stage. What can I say?

An American Kind of Day

After going to the Kukeri festival, I headed over to the Park Mall. It was my first visit to this mall. Stara has two, and one of them is right next to my apartment. I've never had reason to venture over to the other one, Park Mall, until last week.

But I couldn't resist heading over to the mall to try out the ice skating rink before it closes this week.

The Stara Zagora outdoor ice skating rink

I got all booted up in my skates, which looked a lot like roller blades with actual blades instead of wheels. I hadn't been skating in years, and I was a bit nervous but excited at the same time.

Looking all cute and ready to skate.

After several times around the ice holding onto the wall and getting my ice legs back, I was able to skate in slow circles for the rest of my skating session. By the time I was done, my feet hurt from where the arch support hit me in the wrong spot, my shins and calves ached from the exercise, and my core was sore from repeatedly having to stabilize the rest of my body to prevent falling. But I was really, really happy. I had a great time, and I felt like I was back home again.

To make myself feel really at home, I even had a cheeseburger for dinner. I never eat McDonald's, but it seemed to fit my American kind of day.

The Kukeri Come to Stara

Stara Zagora celebrated its Kukeri Festival on March 6, and I was able to go and enjoy the parade and some of the dances. Just like the last Kukeri festival I attended, this one involved lots of men and children dressed up in furry animal like costumes with bells designed to scare away evil spirits. The Festival involved Kukeri groups from all over Bulgaria and even a group from Romania. Following the parade, each group took a turn performing dances/short plays that showed the Kukeri scaring away evil spirits during weddings. There were even two groups of Kukeri made up just of children that performed little skits. They were adorable!

Kukeri in the street

He reminded me of something out of Where the Wild Things Are

Traditional Bulgarian bagpipes

The children performing a skit. If you look to the left, you'll see a little boy dressed up as a priest. So cute!

More Where the Wild Things Are Kukeri performing their skit

I want to climb into this tree and read books and never leave. It looks so comfy.

Shipka or bust!

I have done a crazy amount of traveling around Bulgaria lately! I will try to get all of it up in the next few days if I have time!

March 3 is Bulgarian Independence Day! It commemorates the end of the rule of the Ottoman Empire in Bulgaria with the signing of the Treaty of San Stefano. To celebrate, my friend Hillary and I went to visit Shipka, a mountain pass where the Bulgarian and Russian soldiers fought together against the Ottoman soldiers. We were unable to make it to the Shipka Monument because it was snowing heavily, and there was no easily identifiable way to get from the town to the monument. But we did see the Memorial Church and wandered the town. Then, we spent the night in Kazanluk, a nearby town, where we were able to (finally!) see the Thracian tomb artifacts. All in all, it was an excellent way to spend two days.

Gorgeous building in the snow. So much snow!

Memorial Church

Me by a really cool statue of a kneeling woman.

Graffiti drawing of the Shipka Monument

Entrance to the Thracian tomb exhibit!

I made it!

Golden burial mask

Golden burial wreath. I would like one of these when I die, please. :)

Честита Баба Марта!

Today is the day of Baba Marta (Granny March), and it celebrates the first day of spring. It was bitterly cold here in Stara Zagora, but at least for the time being, there are no signs of snow. In Bulgaria, it is tradition to give out bracelets made of red and white yarn or thread on Baba Marta as symbols of luck, prosperity, and health. I bought mine from an actual baba (granny) on a street near my apartment and handed them out to my students. In return, I received quite a few bracelets. I only had one class today, but I managed to accumulate a sizable number of martenitsi (the bracelets).

I have heard multiple stories of why people give martenitsi on the first of March, but my favorite story came from my ninth graders today. According to them, Khan Asparuh, the ruler of Bulgaria in the 600's, was forced to flee their homeland shortly after his father's death, leaving his sister and brother behind. He agreed to send a bird with a golden thread attached to its leg when he found a safe land. So he sent a falcon with a white thread, and they escaped to the river Danube to flee into Bulgaria. As they reached the river, the conquerors of their homeland spotted them and shot arrows at them. The arrow wounded them both and stained the thread red, but they made it across the river where they died in Asparuh's arms. Asparuh tied the thread on his arm as a prayer to grandmother March to show mercy in the future. These days, the white has come to symbolize purity and the Virgin Mary, and the red symbolizes the blood of life and sacrifice to reflect the change to Christianity. After receiving the martenitsi, you wait and tie them on the trees as they began to bloom.

So, Честита Баба Марта! Happy Granny March!

My martenitsi!